Book Report: Deep Powder & Steep Rock

I thought I knew a lot about the life of heli-skiing pioneer Hans Gmoser, having first read about him in Topher Donahue’s book Bugaboo Dreams. However, after reading Deep Powder & Steep Rock: The Life of Mountain Guide Hans Gmoser by Chick Scott, I now recognize that I only knew a small part of the picture, as Deep…

Red Rock Reflections, Part 2

I wrote the other day about what we climbed during a recent trip to Red Rock. With the climbing summarized, here are a few more post-trip reflections. 1. Desert Approaches are Deceptive. Having spent most of my adult life hiking in the Northeast, I have a pretty good sense of how long it will take…

Red Rock Reflections, Part 1

I recently returned from a fantastic 5-day climbing trip to Red Rock with my friend Josh, who I met during the AMGA Rock Guide Course in North Conway in September. Here’s a quick rundown of what we climbed. Day 1. We climbed Tunnel Vision, a six-pitch route on Angel Food Wall. The chimney on pitch…

Tulip Knows Best

At Little Elephant Head in Tompson Street Reservation on Cape Ann, the 5 feels like a 7, the 6 starts like an 8, and the best 7 climbs like a 5. And as Nick and I discovered last weekend when we set off to climb at this obscure Red-Rock-alternative, the routes themselves are really hard to…

Surf Station: Fall’s Here!

Here one day, gone the next. Between the recent cold snap and the early-season snow, fall in the Northeast seems to have come and gone quickly this year. But despite feeling the squeeze on one of our favorite times of the year—seriously, who doesn’t love Rocktober?—we still managed to post several fall related pieces. One…

My Favorite Pitches of 2018 (So Far)

Ive been thinking a lot recently about my favorite pitches that I’ve lead in 2018 (so far). There were a bunch of candidates and it was a fun process to whittle down the list. Here’s my top 5, with a few honorable mentions for good measure. Honorable Mentions: While a bunch of climbs were in…

Book Report: Valley Walls—A Memoir of Climbing & Living in Yosemite

Beginning with a profile of Alex Honnold featuring him soloing in Yosemite on the popular television show 60 Minutes, and followed a few years later by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgenson’s dramatic ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Cap, climbing in Yosemite has increased its appeal to an audience outside of core climbers. An audience…

Surf Station: Late-Summer 2018

Last summer, while working with Tim on several goEast pieces about hiking Vermont’s 4,000-footers, I ended up hiking four of the five peaks (Mansfield, Camel’s Hump, Ellen, and Abraham) in a 24-hour period. Having done four so casually, it was only natural to wonder if we could do those four and Killington (Vermont’s fifth 4,000-footer)…

Whitehorse & Cathedral in a Day

Tim, Scott, and I recently had a great day climbing on Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledge. We climbed two classic routes—Sliding Board on Whitehorse and Thin Air on Cathedral—in good time, then enjoyed some parking lot beers. While I loved the climbing, I’m pretty sure the post-climb Trilliums made Tim’s day. Here’s the story of our…

Surf Station: Mid-Summer Check-In

While everybody’s been hitting the links recently, we’ve been creating them. Here’s a quick recap of what we’ve been up to the last couple of months. Read on to get over those Monday morning back-to-work blues. For starters, we’re psyched that our “‘Sup With Island Climbing” piece was featured in the summer issue of Wild…